Le Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Today, I woke up at the late late hour of 2pm. I'm still getting used to reading that as 14:00 on the clock! I lounged around most of the day reading my last English book, the Time-Traveler's Wife, enjoying the beautiful weather and the calm breeze winding it's way through the trees above me. I'm in utter disbelief that I'm here, still. I walk downstairs and see a plate waiting for me to eat outside on the patio and lunch on the stove. I ate my lunch and spent the afternoon reading outside. In the early evening, I was invited to visit the Basilique Fourviere with my lovely hosts. I said yes almost immediately! I've been jumping at any opportunity to tour the area and see more of the sites that are brand new to my eyes. I'd seen this church from a distance while we were in the car and commented on how beautiful it was, so I guess that inspired our visit. I wasn't sure what to expect- I didn't know if we were attending a service or just visiting. I was excited for either opportunity. I cherish moments in the car as well for the air condition, so while I'm always excited to arrive at our destination, I also enjoy the little reminder of home that I don't get inside most buildings! We arrived at the Cathedral and I saw many tourists, so I was a bit relieved that I wouldn't have to feel like the lone foreigner in a large group of nationals! We parked the car and started the short walk up to the front of the Cathedral, me taking pictures all the way and yet still trying to pretend that I'm not foreign! I don't think that was much of a success. I saw off to the side a beautiful view of the entire city of Lyon and made a mental note to return and take pictures. Upon our arrival at the front of the Cathedral, an Asian priest asked if we could take his photo a certain way in front of it. Being the only fluent English speaker in my small group of 3, the task was passed to me. It was then my turn for a photo-op, and then we ventured closer, me taking photos all the way. There was a Mass in session so we weren't able to go inside yet, so instead we trekked down to an area behind the Cathedral where the area to see the entire city was. I was squeezed in amongst some other people who had also taken this opportunity to see the city from this view, and my lovely host and hostess, Fabienne and Gerard, were telling me about the city and the things at which I was looking, both in English and in French. I noted the Saone and Rhone rivers, and the Town Hall and Universities and the school at which Fabienne is a teacher and countless other things in this beautiful city. The view with the city in front of me and the Cathedral behind me was definitely something exquisite to behold. As I'm told, the story of Le Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourviere is that in the 19th century, there was a horrible epidemic, and the people prayed that if it ended, they would build a Cathedral in honor of it. And so it did end, and this Cathedral was built. I was also told of the Festival of Lights that occurs in early December that remembers this event. So we took a walk down the hill a little ways onto a bridge that overlooks more of the city, and saw in which direction is Paris and other noteworthy locations. We walked back up the path, me snapping pictures whenever I saw something remotely interesting, and then we saw her! High above, with her back to us, was the golden Lady for reverence of whom the Cathedral was built. She faces Lyon in all her golden glorious splendor, and I was anxious to be able to see her from the front. So we walked in the hot hot sun and cool shade until we reached the front of the Cathedral, and I found an ideal location to take the picture. We decided to stop in and have a cool drink to alleviate some of the heat that seemed to be radiating from our very bodies. A small cafe beside the Cathedral provided just the comfort we were in search of. We took our seats outside under cover of the shade and joined the small crowd that gathered there on a quest for the same sort of refreshment as us. The bells in the great Cathedral began to ring out for all to hear, signifying the end of Mass. A few more people came into the already crowded cafe and many people strolled the surrounding property, in search of that perfect angle to capture a photo of the golden virgin. As the bells tolled for several minutes, the waitress scurried around attempting to satisfy everyone's drink orders and clear tables at the same time. After many promises of returning soon for us, she finally took our order. The only thing in the world that I wanted at that moment was an ice cold Coke to quench my thirst. I know that water would be the most healthy thing, but there's something about Coke from an ice-cold glass bottle that completely satisfies my thirst every time. We only had to wait a short time for our refreshments, and while we waited I observed the other weary souls congregated in this small area for a drink. I've noticed that some people seem to look more like caricatures of people than the real thing, like the old man who was sitting further down on our table with the most prominent nose and lower lip I've ever seen in my life. He "tsk'd" impatiently when the waitress set their check down. Everyone seems to be a traveler here, whether they are French, Italian, Asian, or American, everyone has come together to see this beautiful place. It's something we all have in common. So after we finished our drinks and had our fill of bird and people watching, we rose from our seats and made our way towards the Cathedral once more. Now that Mass had ended, we were free to roam the inside. I did not feel that it would be appropriate to take pictures of the inside, and even if I did they would not have come out well enough for the viewer to grasp fully how you feel when you're inside. The smaller room was beautiful and colorful and everything you can think of in a small chapel. There were people towards the front meditating or praying, and in the back there was information posted on the wall regarding how the history behind the Cathedral, all etched in stone and marble and illustrated wonderfully. There was a small stand with Candles that were in honor of the Virgin Mary. Several were lit and there was a sign that asked for a 2 euro donation to light a candle to venerate Mary. I stood in awe of the room and its artwork and its stories. We left that room and moved towards the front and center entrance, towards the room that I had not entered before since their was a Mass in session. As I entered it, I realized that had I been in awe before, it was nothing compared to how I felt about this room, now. It was much bigger, with two large marble oblong bowls on marble stands on both sides in the back containing Holy Water. The artwork on the wall was colorful and golden and ornate and grandiose...every word that you could imagine. The walls were lined with confessionals and a few people were seated near the front- whether they were waiting for another service to begin or just praying as well I'm not sure. We began to follow the path around the room and I noticed more stands with candles to venerate Mary, each asking for donations of 2 euros for the candle and one asking for 4 as the candles were larger. History is etched on these walls and the high ceilings and portrayed better in a manner that makes me understand much better than any history book ever did. I feel at peace here, and it seems that everyone feels the same way. There's hardly any photography going on with the exception of someone taking a picture on their camera phone, but it's as though people sense that a flash would ruin the somber and worshipful atmosphere. A priest walks the aisle, stopping for anyone who requests his attention. A little boy on the far side of the great room drops something and it echoes loud and sharp on the wooden benches and stone walls and he cowers behind his mother in embarrassment, but attention is quickly brought back to the huge stained glass windows and the golden walls and the stories these pictures are telling. I don't want to leave this peaceful haven too quickly so follow Fabienne slowly around the room and she stop stops to point out certain things that are "tres jolie" even though it is all "very pretty" in my opinion. We stop after we have made a full circle of the room and Fabienne lights a candle for Mary and places it on the stand with many others. We pause for a moment so that I can read something and then carry on, out the back door and back into the sunlight. It's almost blinding compared to the inside of the Cathedral and it's dim lighting, which is mostly cast by candles. I realize that our tour is over and we must leave this place now, but I know I'll be coming back. It's too beautiful to only see once.